Got back yesterday about 9 PM from the Galapagos. O. M. G. what a spectacular place. Although I took many pictures, none come close to capturing the magic of the place. On one walk, I nearly stepped on a sea lion. Seriously. Walking along, gaping at the albatrosses nesting, and I darned near stepped on a 300 lb sea lion. I apologized, took a picture, and swore to be more careful. Not ten minutes later? Nearly tripped over another. The animals aren't tame - the naturalists call them "naive." They are just stunning - doesn't matter what animal you're talking about, they don't mind people at all. No fear. For me, it was a clear demonstration of how badly we've treated all the other animals on the planet that fear humans. Amazing place. Went with Lindblad Expeditions, which was so the right way to go! A smallish ship (96 passengers, 95 crew) with a full staff of naturalists.
It was wonderful. We heard "Good morning, good morning" every day, no later than 6:45. As Carlos, the expedition leader said "you have the rest of your life to sleep! And remember, you paid for this!" He was so right. By getting up that early and out - many days our excursions started at 8 - we saw the wildlife at the right time. So a sample day would be an early morning walk, back to the ship for breakfast, snorkeling for an hour, back for lunch, time for a siesta or on-board activity, another excursion or snorkeling event at about 3, back with time for showering, cocktail and debriefing in the lounge, then dinner at 7:30. By the end of the day, I'd crawl into my comfortable bed exhausted and satisfied, still wondering at the wildlife. Met some amazing people, snorkeled with sea lions, penguins and hundreds of different kinds of fish. Never got past the amazement of the birds nesting just inches away (we couldn't touch anything, but unless you got within 12 inches of the birds, they didn't do anything except make low 'back off' noises). Blue footed boobies, red footed boobies, Nazca boobies, frigates, albatross, eagles, owls, hawks, thousands of terns. Giant land tortoises, land and marine iguanas, sea lions everywhere, penguins... magical. If you've ever dreamed of going to the Galapagos, do it. Don't cheap out on it - get a good naturalist (our's were all PhD locals) and I promise, you won't regret it.
Nobody wanted to leave the ship or the islands. Nobody. Amazing trip.
Tuesday, July 29, 2014
Wednesday, July 9, 2014
An African Con
Yep. We have discovered - to our very great horror - that TATS is a fraud, run by a con man. After three weeks of trying to make it work and giving him every opportunity to make it right, we finally came to our senses and called a halt to the charade. Stranded in Kenya in a vehicle on its last legs and with no money for repairs, food or lodgings, my friend called in some favors.
One of her students in London is from Uganda; he called his father, who called Rich Man, aka Knight in Shining Armor, who rode to our rescue; KSA insisted that we get back to Kampala - which we did. We flew in from Nairobi yesterday - KSA had a driver and car meet us at the airport and deliver us to a ritzy country club resort (which he owns). He's installed us there, each in one bedroom flats, at his expense for our remaining time here. And he's offered to arrange additional excursions so that he can make up for what The Thief of Kampala (hereafter TK) did to us. This guy is one of the richest men in the world, so ... it's quite an experience, to be treated with such respect and care after three weeks of being treated like idiot children.
We are just now completing our complaint against TATS, who is being investigated by both the police and the Ugandan Tourism Association for fraud and illegal activities.
All that said - the countryside and wildlife we've seen have staggered us by their beauty and abundance. Uganda is lush and tropical green; the part of Kenya that we saw was high savannah and beyond the ability of photographs to capture. I adore Kenya, and will be back. To say it is gorgeous is a massive understatement. We ran out of superlatives at our very first national park.
One of her students in London is from Uganda; he called his father, who called Rich Man, aka Knight in Shining Armor, who rode to our rescue; KSA insisted that we get back to Kampala - which we did. We flew in from Nairobi yesterday - KSA had a driver and car meet us at the airport and deliver us to a ritzy country club resort (which he owns). He's installed us there, each in one bedroom flats, at his expense for our remaining time here. And he's offered to arrange additional excursions so that he can make up for what The Thief of Kampala (hereafter TK) did to us. This guy is one of the richest men in the world, so ... it's quite an experience, to be treated with such respect and care after three weeks of being treated like idiot children.
We are just now completing our complaint against TATS, who is being investigated by both the police and the Ugandan Tourism Association for fraud and illegal activities.
All that said - the countryside and wildlife we've seen have staggered us by their beauty and abundance. Uganda is lush and tropical green; the part of Kenya that we saw was high savannah and beyond the ability of photographs to capture. I adore Kenya, and will be back. To say it is gorgeous is a massive understatement. We ran out of superlatives at our very first national park.
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